From High Lakes to Giants: A Nordic Mountain Journey
Looking back at our journey that we made in July of 2022, and reflecting on the great adventure that it turned out to be, I hope that you enjoy our short story!
There's a special kind of energy that gathers at the edge of the mountains, a blend of anticipation and respect for the wildness ahead. Our latest journey began steeped in this feeling, starting from the serene shores of Grövelsjön, nestled high in the Swedish mountains where Dalarna kisses the Norwegian border. This unique area, with its gentle yet vast fells and the shimmering lake mirroring the sky, always feels like a gateway – a place to breathe deep before venturing further.
Leaving Grövelsjön felt like casting off. The familiar, rolling Swedish fells, sculpted by ancient ice and wind, gradually gave way as we pointed the car west. The border crossing into Norway is often subtle on the map but palpable in the air. The landscape seemed to gain a certain ruggedness, a sharper edge, hinting at the dramatic transformations to come.
Our first major stop was the incredible town of Røros. Stepping out of the car here is like stepping back in time. A UNESCO World Heritage site, Røros wears its history proudly. The colourful, centuries-old wooden houses huddle together, built from the wealth generated by the copper mines that shaped this town for over 300 years. We wandered the narrow streets, imagining the lives of the miners, marveling at the unique church, and feeling the weight of history in the crisp mountain air. It’s a place that feels both resilient and remarkably preserved, a stark contrast to the untamed nature surrounding it.
From Røros, the road called us southwards, deeper into Norway. The landscape unfolded like a continuously changing map – wide valleys carved by rivers, forests climbing steep slopes, and always, the promise of higher peaks looming on the horizon. The scale felt different here; the mountains seemed to crowd closer, their presence more imposing.
Our destination was the Home of the Giants, the famous Jotunheimen National Park. As we approached, the excitement built. This is the heartland of Norway's highest peaks, a realm of soaring summits, glaciers, and turquoise lakes. Even from the approach roads, the sheer scale is breathtaking. Peaks like Galdhøpiggen and Glittertind, though perhaps hidden from immediate view, make their presence felt. The air feels thinner, charged with the power of high places. Finding a spot to camp for the night felt like settling at the feet of sleeping giants, ready to explore their domain come morning.
Leaving Jotunheimen, with its sharp peaks and glacial blues etched in our minds, felt like descending from another world. The giants watched us go as we turned eastward, the intensity of the landscape slowly softening. But our mountain immersion wasn't quite over. Our route home led us towards Rondane National Park, the oldest national park in Norway.
Rondane offered a different kind of mountain majesty compared to Jotunheimen. Its peaks are more rounded, ancient giants worn smooth by time and ice, often described as sleeping trolls. The landscape felt wider, more expansive, with vast plateaus dotted with hardy lichen and windswept birch trees clinging to the lower slopes. We spent a day hiking here, the trails often gentler but no less rewarding, offering panoramic views across the undulating highlands. The feeling was less about sharp, dramatic power and more about enduring, ancient strength. Camping nearby that night, the silence felt profound, broken only by the wind sighing across the plateau.
From Rondane, the final leg of the journey began. Gradually, the high plateaus gave way to thicker forests, the familiar landscapes of eastern Norway and eventually, Sweden, welcoming us back. Crossing the border felt like completing a circle, carrying memories of stark peaks, historic towns, and ancient, rounded fells.
This journey, from the expansive tranquility of Grövelsjön, through the living history of Røros, into the raw majesty of Jotunheimen, and across the ancient plateaus of Rondane, was a powerful reminder of the incredible diversity packed into this corner of Scandinavia. Each stage offered a different perspective, a different beauty, yet all were connected by the enduring presence of the mountains. It’s a route that calls to the explorer, promising history, breathtaking scenery, and the unforgettable feeling of connection to the wild heart of the north.